Archive for January, 2014

February Breakfast

Tuesday, January 28th, 2014

So apparently there’s a new chain in town, busy touting the “best breakfast in London” on placards outside their outlets. Obviously, this sort of claim can’t simply be allowed to go unassessed by the gallant breakfast Wednesday brigade. So let’s see you there next week to test whether their self-confidence is justified …

Breakfasting venue: Hush

Date of breakfasting: 8am, 19 February 2014

Location: 1 Ludgate Hill, EC4M 7AA

A breakfast fit for Andrew

Tuesday, January 28th, 2014

With the advent of the long commute into work, time to search out good quality greasy spoon venues suitable for the Breakfast Wednesday itinerary has been sadly lacking.  However, a determined resolution to put this right for the first breakfast of the New Year culminated in a visit to the inventively titled “Andrew’s Restaurant” on Gray’s Inn Road – and what a good idea that turned out to be. 

The unassuming exterior, with displaying its name rather unprominently in cursive script spoke of breakfasts of yore, before the advent of ginger pigs and other such swank.  And of an establishment where actually knowing the name of the place is less important than simply being able to see, through the vast and unobstructed glass frontage, the formidable formica table capacity and the vast array of set breakfasts on offer.  In fact, such is the extent of the possibilities open to the customer simply by uttering the words “Set” in combination with any digit you can choose, that it took five minutes just to mentally weigh up the options and their respective merits.   Fortunately, they were more than happy to take drink order while I stood gaping at the board, and a mug of steaming hot milky instant coffee was swiftly procured.

Settling for “Set 6”  (without beans, naturally) I sat to await the goods, noting with satisfaction the respectable throng of yellow vests inhabiting other corners of the caff.  Almost universally a good sign – and this proved to be no exception.

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Breakfast was delivered swiftly and in whole plate-encompassing style.  Additional points are awarded for excellent presentation, with the alternating hash brown and black pudding cornerpiece deserving a special mention.  A generous serving of deliciously cooked mushrooms sets a standard that all greasy spoon breakfasts should aspire to.  Meanwhile, the two eggs atop my fried bread sliced were both perfectly cooked and looked a beauteaous sight, staring up and demanding to be demolished. 

While I would not rank the bacon as the best I have had, it certainly passed muster – and the sausage was pleasingly hearty; no pretensions but just a good, well cooked, perfectly proportioned for egg stabbing.  Was there anything to criticse at all?  Well, presentation aside, the black puds were perhaps a touch dry, but by no means crisped and were tasty enough, so this is perhaps plucking at straws.  And for six quid, there’s certainly nothing one could level any serious complaint at in the whole experience.

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Did I mention also, that the whole delicious shabang cost the princely sum of £6.20?  Of course, out in the sticks where I live one can toddle round the corner to places where a full English (admittedly a fairly sparse one, but with all the essentials nonetheless) can be had for merely £1.99 … but in London I rather doubt you’ll do much better than Andrew’s for value for money – and even if you find a cheaper option, I would be surprised if it offered comparable quantity and quality for the pound in your pocket.   In short then – Andrew’s excels!  If you haven’t been here, you owe yourself (if not your arteries) a visit.

January Breakfast

Tuesday, January 21st, 2014

Breakfasting venue: Andrew’s Restaurant

Date of breakfasting: 8am, 22 January 2014

Location: 160 Gray’s Inn Road

Nearest Tube is: Chancery Lane

What does the fox eat?

Monday, January 6th, 2014

December breakfast is always a tough call.  Along with Christmas, the last Breakfast Wednesday of the year feels like it can never quite live up to the expectations that are held for it – it must be a glorious success and have some sort of celebratory feel to it.  Yet revisiting a ‘tried and tested’ venue also seems like cheating.   This year’s selection was no different, and after lengthy debate over which establishments offered the best chance of an early morning festive tipple along with the the standard fare, the Fox and Anchor was selected.

Seems hard to believe that Breakfast Wednesdays has been going this long without yet visiting this formidable force on the Breakfasting scene.  The Fox and Anchor is tucked away on a side street running off from Smithfield Market, a mere stone’s throw from the location of previous Breakfasts, yet we’ve never noticed it.  Perhaps because it is a pub, and it has to be said that the general performance of pubs in BW’s experience has been poor (with the notable exception of Simpson’s Tavern, of course).  Nevertheless, the offer of a “City Boy” breakfast including a pint of stout along with the Full English with liver, kidneys and black pudding suggested true dedication to the best principles of pre-work consumption and demanded at least fair consideration.

The first hurdle was actually getting through to secure a table, and after the phone rang out again on the third attempt to get through, I opted for the “turn up and see” approach. For practically every place we’ve been to, this would be unproblematic as they are usually at best half full at 8am. Not the Fox and Anchor, which was crammed from corner to corner with merrily feasting suited types.

However, I must offer full points to them on this front – other than a slightly furrowed brow when we said we had no booking, no fuss was made at all as we were guided to a cosy little table for four in an out of sight alcove. Not even when the fifth and sixth breakfasters turned up. I am, sadly, unable to report on the merits of the “City Boy” breakfast as, in the event, none of our party turned out to be up to the challenge. However the noises emanating from the adjacent table, which had been supplied with several “City Boys” suggests that it met with satisfaction.

Those of our own breakfasters who contented themselves with a modest full English were not disappointed either. Where many inferior competitors have gone the way of the single sausage, it is heartening to know that the real deal is still on offer. In addition to the double helping of processed pork, the standard serving also includes two eggs and a healthy(?) portion of bacon. In short, this breakfast does not go short on anything.

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The only real stumbling block was the tomatoes, and it is almost a shame to mention it given the quality of pretty much every other aspect of our experience – but on the other hand, when so much of it is done so well anything that doesn’t quite come up to scratch sticks out like a sore thumb. So here it is – breakfast tomatoes should never ever be served cold. It’s contrary to all logic and to the laws of the Medes and Persians (or I’m sure it would have been, had they had any rules about breakfast). I don’t care what fine herbs are daintily sprinkled across them, or how beautifully they’ve been cut, a hot breakfast should be hot. And breakfast tomatoes should ideally be served up with a sprinkling of salt, gleaming skin, and dark brown grill lines like plough furrows across them, HOT from the grill or skillet. I’ll even accept tinned tomotoes that have been heated up in a microwave at a pinch. But a cold tomato plonked on the side of the plate is anathema – we’re not here for a salad. We’re here for a breakfast.

With that rant aside, breakfast at the Fox and Anchor was without any further blemish (well, any blemish other that was the responsibility of the venue … we cannot, of course, blame the veritable establishment for the menu choices of some of our less enlightened co-breakfasters. Porridge, honestly!!)

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Anyway, I would happily be back here for a hearty start to the day – and the lure of the “City Boy” still remains …